• Flying Blind At Frenchie in Paris
    What an exquisite dance we had with the sommelier at Frenchie last Wednesday! The head sommelier Aurélien Masse unveiled a stunning series of wines, which we were given the tantalizing task of identifying blind alongside our carte blanche1 tasting menu dinner. It started like this: ‘I’ve got some stuff that’s not on the wine list, as well.’ ‘Any Jamet ... read more
  • Making Up With Sancerre
    SANCERRE is the word on the lips of nearly every young woman that strikes a pose in front of the wine fridges. Sancerre sells itself. It’s easy to spell and retain. Even if it’s dead simple to pronounce and flows from the tongue like a short sibilant song, one feels a tiny sense of pride in pronouncing it, as if ... read more
  • The Magical French Salad that Pairs with Red Wine: the Salade Landaise
    I moved to New York City from France. After living in Paris for two years and Bordeaux for seven years, there are some French things that I can’t even find in the consumer paradise that is New York City.  Maybe New York City’s French wine selection can outstrip that of Paris1, but … The perfect baguette and accompanying pâtisserie? Maison Kayser ... read more
  • The Valle d’Aosta, Italy’s Beautiful Secret, Part 2
    This is the second article on Italy’s stunning Valle d’Aosta region. Here is the previous article on the La Kiuva co-op. This article explores the opposite of the co-op model: independent vigneron Vincent Grosjean. The Grosjean Brothers’ wines are like dark, knotted oaks; reticent with their charms, slow to grow, open, and reveal themselves. But once they are forthcoming, ... read more
  • The Valle d’Aosta, Italy’s Beautiful Secret
    I can see myself living here for a while.The Valle d’Aosta is the fascinating Alpine junction between France, Switzerland, and Italy. In the extreme northwest of Italy, Valdostano denizens typically speak both French and Italian, their accents a mind-bending blend of Southern French drawl and classic bouncy, sing-song Italian. Welcome to the mountains.Contrary to popular belief, the Romans may not ... read more
  • This New French Wine Monopoly Game Is A Little Crazy
    I’m a bit upset I hadn’t heard about this last November when it went on sale. Look at the playing board for this new French wine edition of Monopoly:   How fun is this? One simply must know immediately which vineyards occupy Boardwalk and Park Place squares, and which are the lowly beginner squares. That’s where the fun begins. ... read more
  • Wine and Mortality, pt 3
    “As soon as I realized I was mortal, I started to worry.” Dr David Sinclair, quoted by NYTimes, July 8 2007.This is the third post in the Wine and Mortality series. Previous articles examined our penchant for aged wine and wine collecting in light of our mortality. Can you remember the resveratrol craze of the early 2000s, when wine ... read more
  • Wine and Mortality, pt 2
    When will Geddy Lee have enough wine?My last article examined our penchant for aged wine in light of our mortal condition. Next up: wine collecting. A spurt of adrenalin accompanies any major wine purchase. Perhaps the same holds true for any number of things that aren’t as quotidian as bleach, garbage bags, or canned beans.  But even when compared ... read more
  • Wine and Mortality, pt 1
    Here’s an article I found interesting: The Seven Greatest Wines of All Time, a cursory1 metadata analysis examining wines which deserved a perfect score across critics. For the most part, only wines which had withstood the test of time — at least 20 years of age, or say the 1811 Yquem — were fit for the crown. As I’ve noted ... read more
  • A Thanksgiving Wine List: Two Days’ Worth of Wine
    Nothing says Thanksgiving like the Count.Two days, twenty people total at a dear friend’s family home in the woods of Connecticut. Obviously, if I have anything to say, there will be an accent on French wine. And there will be Burgundy.  And bubbles are in order! Some value options to offset the cost of Burgundy, aimed at those thirsting ... read more