Even if the 100 point wine scoring system is not going away anytime soon, wine consumers are getting wise to some shameful flaws. Yet another ghastly pair of endemic faults which are seemingly never discussed?
Glass ceilings for certain wines, and perhaps more insidiously: the invisible, deleterious effects of moderation drinker rationale.
DO NOT QUESTION THE GLASS CEILING, MOVE ALONG
“Once the Wine Spectator wrote a story on Beaujolais. The top wine had a score of 86 or 88. I sent them a note saying I’d read the article and thought the wine might be to my taste, ‘But could you please tell me the names of people who really know how to make Beaujolais as I’d like to taste some 90+ point wines.’ They wrote back saying ‘You don’t understand. (Click to Read more)
Mute that damned phone; turn your computer’s volume up.
Take a deep breath.
Let me take you somewhere magical for five minutes. (You’ll want full-screen video).
Welcome to one of the most beautiful places on this Earth: Valtellina. Sorry for the abrupt ending; this is an excerpt of a larger film by the celebrated Italian director Ermanno Olmi. Valtellina is probably the least known high-quality wine producing region of Italy. I wish I could send you the smell of burning wood, wet earth, stone, and porcini mushrooms just now to accompany these images.
Valtellina is where Nebbiolo (aka ‘Chiavennasca’ for locals) grows on the slopes of the Alps. This is as mountain Nebbiolo as you’ll get. You can see (Click to Read more)
Two weeks had passed, and I still couldn’t bring myself to pour the 2010 Beaulieu Vineyard (BV) Georges de Latour Private Reserve down the drain. It had been offered to me as a gift, and I knew damn well how much it cost. After relegating the bottle to my fridge and checking in periodically hoping that either the wine or my palate would change, I tried one last time and then finally accepted the inevitable.
This $100 bottle of wine is an undrinkable monstrosity. The $10 2011 Château Terrebert Cotes du Marmandais aside it is a far more alluring wine. The Terrebert was finished; the BV was poured down the drain.
Even if there’s no correspondence between price and quality in wine, it’s a bit shocking: how did BV end up crafting a wine that was impossible to drink? And what could the BV have tasted like?
THE BEAULIEU VINEYARD: TCHELISTCHEFF’S LEGACY
André Tchelistcheff is a deity among California wine enthusiasts. If Georges de Latour — a French businessman who founded the Beaulieu Vineyard in Napa Valley in 1900 — was the visionary who selected the vineyard site and European vine clones to plant, Tchelistcheff was the humble master technician who (Click to Read more)